MSD digital shift light installed on the mustang.  Install was pretty simple; power, ground, and tach wire.  The tach tire you just run to your MSD box or if you don’t have a box they give you some other wires to hack it in.   The shift light can be programmed to whatever you want, so no need to mess with any pills like the old school units.  Plus you can set different shift points for different gears.  I’m not a fan of the big tach’s / shift lights so this one was perfect, small and has a bunch of features.  Pictures below…

Finally had a chance to drop off the pipe to get the flange welded on for the BOV.  I took the pipe off last night then cut off the old flange and dropped it off a local shop this morning.  Picked it up tonight and threw on the new BOV.  I still have to adjust the spring, however everything seems to work fine.  Hopefully tomorrow morning I can run over to the shop and get my o2 bung welded on for the wideband.

As you can see the old BOV was plastic and quite small…

New and Old up close…

Below is the new flange welded on….

Figured I’d jot down some of my notes on part numbers for my Mustang, which pretty much applies to any Foxbody Mustang from 1987 to 1993 with a 302 / 5.0.  I’ll be updating this post as I go through what I ordered / need.

Motorcraft Regular PCV Valve: EV98B
Motorcraft Turbo PCV Valve: EV76C

Motorcraft Fuel Filter: FG800A

Bosch 02 Sensor:  BS13942
( https://www.carpartswholesale.com ) had them the cheapest

Moroso Check Valve: MOR-97800 – This is check valve used in addition to the PCV

Bosch Wide Band O2 Sensor Type A (D Style) – For PLX Wideband M300

TREMEC 3550 Output Seal 2603979 – Ford Part # D6AP-7052-AA

(Note the TREMEC likes the GM Syncromesh 3 bottles)

My Clutch:

MMR RBT700

I was having some issues with some oil getting back into the intake via the PCV valve so I descided to add a catch can.  The catch can’s job is to do just what it says, catch junk that may pass through the PCV before the air is recycled back into your intake.    I grabbed a crappy can off eBay and modified it to fit my needs.  The first thing I did was disassemble the unit, it was put together like crap.   I re-threaded and sealed all the connections and tested it to hold pressure.    I also dilled out a few of the connections to support more air volume.

This pic is after I drilled it out, the holes before were 1/2 the size.

Everything re-sealed and ready to go…

The clear tube so you can see how full the can is.

The bracket mounted….

The final mounting and lines hooked up…

The last week I was able to work on the mustang a little bit.  I was trying to figure out what these extra wires were that I found when I was re-wiring some of the burnt wires under the engine bay.  I noticed two wires with clips on the end and I had no idea what they were for.  They didn’t look stock, so I descided to start tracing them back.

The wires I found:

I traced them back through the firewall, then they ran down near the drivers side of the car under the carpet.  The big red Zero guage wire is the battery wire thats located in the trunk.  I also found some other smaller red wires that ran from the fuse box to the back as well.   I could not for the life of me figure out what these wires were.  I continued to trace these back under the rear seat to the trunk…

Once I got to the trunk I found a ton more of the wire, then found out that all of this wire was going to a box which controlled some type of high voltage lighting.  Once of the previous owners must have been a volunteer fireman.  I pulled out the box, and all of the wires, it must have weight at least 25lbs all together.

Hopefully over the this week I’ll be able to see if the changes I made fixed my issues…

Over the past few days I have been slowly going over the engine bay looking for wiring problems.  A combo of the heat generated in the engine bay and age of the car resulted in a bunch of wires needing replacement.  I am replacing a few of the key wires completely and repairing others where needed.  I ran a new 4 gauge alternator wire to the starter solenoid (where power is then distributed). The reason I went with a 4 gauge is so if I decide to go with a 3g alternator you need the bigger wire to support the increased amps. I still need to get a fuse before I finish hooking it up.  I was reading that the 3g alternators give you the same amp’s at idle then a stock alternator at 5000 rpm’s, I think that may be my next upgrade.

The old wiring harness, pulled it out so I could get working on cleaning it up and re-routing it.  I had to extend a few wires so I could tuck it into the fender.

The new alternator wires, I have them nice and high away from the exhaust so they wont fry like the last ones.

Below is where I still have to clean up wires, however its showing the new 4 gauge wire that needs to be terminated at the solenoid still.

So, everything is running. I’ve been babying it around trying to break in the clutch.   Everything seemed OK until I went out to belmore last Friday.  I literally pulled in the lot, parked, then the car died.  It would turn over, but would not start!  So after freaking out for a little, my buddy came over and we ran to 7-11 to get a flash light.   Checked everything, and we noticed there was some arching going on near the coil.  After it cooled down, the car started up.

I changed the coil to a MSD Blaster 3 (hoping that was the issue).  I also changed the plugs, cap and rotor.  I went out the other night in the car for a ride, and when I got back home it died again.  This time I was out in the street right in front of my house. Again it wouldn’t fire up.  I let it sit for 20 min, then bamm it fired right up.

After searching the net, it seems that this could be a TFI issue (Ignition Module).  The issue seems to be heat related, because when the car is cold it’s fine.  So I ran out to SK-Speed and picked up a new Accel TFI module, a set of wires, and a ground strap.   I installed the new TFI and wires tonight, hopefully tomorrow I’ll do the new ground strap. I need to figure out where to put it.   So hopefully the issue is the TFI, once this rain stops I’ll be able to test it out.  If it runs well, it might be time for a dyno tune!

Here are some pics from last weekend.

Oh, and I also re-organized my shed.   Built a work bench, tool/rake holder and a short bench (to keep stuff off the floor).  Came out pretty good, shed is nice and clean/organized now.

Figured I’d post some before and aftershots of the the new Headlights I just put on my Mustang.   The ones that were on there were these Euro on piece designs that looked like crap.  They were also cracked and leaking, when I washed the car it was like a fish tank in there. (pictures below)

Just a small update on the project also… Rear main seal, new clutch (MMR RBT700), pilot bearing (Ford), throw out bearing (Ford), and flywheel (Ford) are in.  I have to bolt up the cross member to the tranny, I had to modify it for the new 3550 TREMEC that we put in.  Down the road I’ll have to get that welded so there is no shifting.  I also need to hook up the clutch cable and make sure that’s OK and test it before I bolt the exhaust back up.  After that I should be good to go, and hopefully no problems.  The new clutch requires a 450 mile break in of stop and go. The clutch should handle the power OK, it seemed to get good reviews on the various mustang forums.

During some of the downtime I clayed the car and used a paint cleaner.  It looks pretty good for its age, hopefully tonight I’ll apply the polish and get the wax on sometime this weekend.  The car has a ton of scratches and other issues, but for a 23 year old car it looks pretty good.    If I have everything rolling this weekend I’l really like to get the undercarrige of the car cleaned up, I was thinking of putting it on jack stands in the driveway and getting some engine degreeser underthere and spraying it down.  I tried to wipe most of the old oil off around the tranny area from the old rear main seal leaking with some break cleaner when I was putting in the tranny.  I need to read up more on detailing the engine bay as well, its pretty dirty in there. (any suggestions welcome!)

Headlight pictures

Old Look:

New Look:

With Parking Lights On:

Well, I finally picked up a 1987 foxbody Mustang last Monday, its a LX Hatch 5.0 5-Speed.  I spent the last 7 months hunting around for something within my budget and somewhat clean.  It seemed that every one of these cars that I went to look at was hit at one point and time.  The one I picked up looked fairly straight and it had a lot money in parts invested it in it.    The paint is in OK shape, eventually I’d love to get the car re-painted, however I do see that being done in the foreseeable future. The interior is actually in pretty good shape, it needs a good cleaning and detail.  I cleaned all the vinyl surfaces with a non-ammonia cleaner then went over it with Meguiar’s Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner.  I gave the car a wash the other day with Meguiars Gold car wash, it probably the first wash its had in months as the car was just sitting outside.  These pics below is the car wet, so it actually looks pretty good.  I’m not sold on the rims, I love the Cobra “R” style, I just wish they were the brushed Aluminum instead.  The tires are near new, and have a ton of tread left, so it looks like these will be on here for quite a while, the rears are 275 Micky Thompson drag radials.

The car has a bunch of goodies already installed, which ultimately made me choose it.   The previous owner chose to go with Autometer cobalt gauges, which actually look pretty nice lit up.  They give off a blueish color when the lights are on.  The picture I took below isn’t great but it shows the gauge setup.  There is a fuel, EGT, and oil pressure gauge installed below the radio.  Then the other picture shows the boost and PLX wideband to monitor the air fuel ratio.

The throw out bearing and clutch are shot on the car, I was able to pickup a TREMEC 3550 for pretty cheap with low miles to replace the T5 that’s in the car.  The T5 is known to be pretty weak, especially in third gear, and its bound to blow if your running 350+ RWHP.  I have a new TOB, Rear Main Seal, and Clutch (MMR 700) ready to go.  I dropped the tranny out yesterday, took me longer then I wanted to due to some rusted and stubborn bolts.   I have to finish up taking out the bell housing, old clutch, and flywheel this week so I can go drop the flywheel off at the machinist to get cut.

The engine supposedly only has about 1500 miles on it since the rebuild, stock block bored .30 over (306) it has TRW pistons, ARP hardware, yada yada.. I just hope it holds up for some summer fun.  I changed the oil the other day, it looks clean, no sign of antifreeze or anything. It sounds clean, no ticks, seems smooth.

Anyways, the plans are to change the tranny/clutch,  rear main seal, etc and get the car on the road for some fun.  I’ll try to baby it as much as I can, I don’t want to have wrench on it all summer long.  Last night after I dropped the tranny it was a little too late to start using the air tools again since the wife was sleeping, I hit the whole car with some paint cleaner to prep it for claying, polish and wax.  The Meg’s step 1 cleaner works pretty well, it brightened up the paint quite a bit where it was dull.  Unfortunately the bumpers are pretty oxidized and I don’t think anything is going to bring back the color in them.

Once the car is up and running I’d love to change the headlights, those one pieces ones look so cheap looking and I am not fan of the clear style anyways. It could use a new headliner and carpet down the road as well.

Besides the gauges I mentioned above, the car has some suspension work done.  Motorsport springs, upper/lower control arms, adjustable strut/shocks. It has a 255 in tank pump and a T-Rex external pump, Aluminum drive shaft, Fluidyne aluminum radiator, MSD box with the Blaster coil, and a bunch of other small things. I’ll give a little more detail on the engine work in another post, once she is up and running again I’d like to get the car re-tuned / dyno’d to make sure everything is OK.

I’ll take some more pics over the next few days, and try to keep a log of what I am doing to the car.